Tomato Fennel Soup with Gruyère Dippers

With the holidays right around the corner, my daughter’s birthday on Wednesday and my mother-in-law coming to stay for the weekend, a four-letter word comes to mind. Soup.

Quick, nutritious and versatile, soup is a one-pot solution for holiday entertaining and family-feeding stress. With a big pot of soup in the fridge, and/or some containers in the freezer, you’re set for just about anything.  Like the perfect LBD, soup can be dressed up or down to suit any occasion; serve it in big mugs with grilled cheese sandwiches for a casual lunch, or serve it in fine china teacups as an elegant and not-too-filling appetizer for a holiday meal.  My mother-in-law will be very impressed to be served a soup course, as if we were on the Queen Mary (or Titanic); she doesn’t need to know I just pulled it out of the freezer.

Fresh fennel may not be a regular staple in your produce bin, but this soup is a good reason to go out and buy a couple of bulbs. (Look for ones that are firm, with fresh leafy tops.) By pureeing the fennel, onions and tomatoes, you end up with a beautiful, “sippable” soup with good body and a delicate flavor – but looks like regular tomato soup. The fennel can be your little secret.

Tomato Fennel Soup

Adapted from The Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook, by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins

  • 2 fennel (aka fresh anise) bulbs
  • 1 large yellow onion, coarsely chopped
  • ¼ c butter
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 cans (35 oz. each) Italian plum tomatoes
  • ½ cup Pernod* (or other anise liqueur, like sambuca or absenthe)
  • 2 cups (16 oz or ½ a box) chicken stock
  • 1 chicken bouillon cube
  • Freshly grated black pepper
  • ¼ cup (+/- to taste) heavy cream
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 2-3 teaspoons kosher salt

Cut the tops from the fennel bulbs and reserve some of the leafy tops for garnish.

In large pot or Dutch oven over med-low heat, add the chopped fennel, onions and butter and cook until the vegetables are limp. Add the garlic and cook for another minute or two.  Season with 1 teaspoon kosher salt. 

Add the tomatoes with their liquid and simmer uncovered for about 20 minutes. (Now would be a good time to prep the gruyère dippers/croutons.)

Add the Pernod, chicken stock, bouillon cube and a few grinds of black pepper. Using an immersion (stick) blender, pulse/puree the soup right in the pot until smooth. (Alternatively, do this in batches in a blender once it’s cooled a little.) Stir in cream and sugar.  (This helps balance the acidity of the tomatoes.) *Note: The anise liqueur really helps highlight the flavor of the fennel, and it also adds sweetness. If you choose to omit it, you should add another teaspoon of sugar.)

Now is time for the most important step: Tasting and adding salt. Add kosher salt – tasting and adding ½ tsp at a time, up to 2+ teaspoons until it tastes good to you. [Salt is the SECRET to great-tasting soup.  If you’ve ever made a soup that just didn’t taste like much, it needed more salt.]

Serve with chopped fennel fronds for garnish, if desired. Keeps for several days in the refrigerator, or for months in the freezer.

8-12 servings, depending on portion size.

Gruyère Dippers

  • 1 baguette, sliced on the angle and then cut in halves
  • 1 Tbsp olive oil
  • Approx. 8 oz. freshly grated Gruyère cheese

If you can plan a day ahead, slice the baguette and leave out overnight to dry out. This will save a step.

Otherwise, arrange in one layer on a baking sheet and toast in a 350ºF oven until dry/crisp.  Drizzle olive oil over toasted slices, tossing w/hands to coat. (Will not be evenly covered; it’s OK.)

Sprinkle grated cheese over slices and bake at 350ºF for about 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from oven and let cool on baking sheet.

Break apart when cooled. (Eat the crispy cheese bits that stick to the baking sheet.) Store in an airtight container, in pantry or freezer.

Home Sweet Home

It’s brittle with age. It has endured hurricanes, nor’easters, an earthquake, cosmetic and structural repairs, toddlers and cats. The walls are solid but not quite plumb. The roofline sags. It would never win “Best in Show”. But we aren’t parting with it any time soon.

This little house’s imperfections have become part of its character and charm, and a reminder to all (especially me) that things don’t have to be magazine-perfect to be special.  We’re filling the house with memories, which over the years become fused to its foundation like gumdrops to 10-year-old royal icing.  (Fortunately, chocolate bells are protected by foil and therefore can be pried off and eaten in a moment of desperation.) This is our home – cracks, sags, missing bells and all.

MMMagic Bars

Busy month! Time to start cranking out some holiday treats for the freezer (keeps things fresh and safely out of sight). This is one of my favorite recipes because it’s fast, festive and irresistible. (We squeezed in a batch between school concert prep and math homework.)

I’ve adapted this from the classic Magic Cookie Bars recipe – usually found on the back of Eagle Brand sweetened condensed milk; instead of using semisweet chocolate chips, I use red and green “M&M’s”® Brand Milk Chocolate Candies. (Nine years post-Mars, I still feel compelled to use the correct trademark protection for the brand. We took those ®s , ™ s and descriptors very seriously; the colorful little candies are a billion dollar business!)

MMMagic Bars

Makes about 3 dozen squares

  • ½ cup (1 stick) butter
  • 1 ½ cups graham cracker crumbs (available in the baking section)
  • 1 can (14 oz.) sweetened condensed milk (NOT evaporated milk)
  • 1 ½ cups sweetened flaked coconut
  • 1 cup chopped walnuts
  • Approx. 2 cups red & green “M&M’s”® Milk Chocolate Candies (not quite a full 12.6-oz. bag; you’ll have to figure out something to do with the leftover candies . . .)

Preheat oven to 350ºF (325º for a glass dish).  Put stick of butter to 13×9-inch baking pan and melt in oven while oven preheats. When butter is melted, remove pan from oven and add graham cracker crumbs; mix and press evenly into bottom of pan to form cookie base.  (I do it this way to reduce the number of dirty dishes; by all means you could melt the butter in a bowl in the microwave, mix in the graham cracker crumbs, then add to the baking pan.)

Pour sweetened condensed milk evenly over crumb mixture. (Spread carefully so as not to disturb the crumbs too much.)

Layer the remaining ingredients, ending with the candies. With the bottom of a clean jar or large spoon, lightly press down on candies (so they stick to but don’t get submerged in the condensed milk mixture).

Bake 23-25 minutes or until lightly browned and bubbling.

If you can resist, let cool before cutting into squares.  Cookies will firm up once cooled. (I always have to “test” the edges when still hot, though, and it’s a gooey albeit delicious mess.) Store in the freezer if you want them to last more than a day (because they will disappear).

Almost Famous Turkey Burgers with Cilantro Lime Sauce

The best turkey burgers

A couple of years ago I went through a phase of recipe contest mania.  With each new contest – as with every school fundraiser basket raffle or impulse lottery ticket – I was convinced that THIS ONE I was SURE to win, and I would start daydreaming about what I would do with my prize. Alas, no prizes.  I did get close twice, however: once as a national semi-finalist for the Haagen-Dazs “Next Flavor” search (with Ginger Cashew Crunch) and once as a semi-finalist for some obscure Food Network show (with this Turkey Burger recipe). I’m happy to report that I have moved past the contest craze – though I admit I am still a tiny bit tempted by the million-dollar Pillsbury Bake-Off.

Turkey burgers are low in fat and a great option for a quick, healthful meal. However, they tend to be plagued by two maladies: dryness and blandness. With this recipe, both issues go away. (Unless you really overcook the burgers, which is easy to do since we’re all salmonella-spooked and feel compelled to char all poultry.) Here moistness is achieved by lightly mixing the raw onions and mozzarella cheese into the turkey meat; this, combined with the direct/indirect method of cooking (covered pan), creates little pockets of juiciness in the burgers. The flavor boost comes via the cumin, pickled jalapeños and zingy cilantro sauce.

If the mere mention of cilantro makes you gag, hear me out. I used to be one of you! However, thanks to this cilantro sauce epiphany, I now crave the herb and buy it at least once a week. (I also let it self-seed in the garden, and every spring I get a few weeks of harvest before the May heat waves come.) Cilantro has almost zero calories, yet is a good source of Thiamin, Zinc, Dietary Fiber, Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Vitamin K, Riboflavin, Niacin, Vitamin B6, Folate, Pantothenic Acid, Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Phosphorus, Potassium, Copper and Manganese. (Source: USDA) ¡Viva cilantro!

Jalapeño Turkey Burgers with Cilantro Lime Sauce

Serves 4-6 (depending on size of burgers and appetites)

 Cilantro Lime Sauce

  • 1 small bunch cilantro, washed & dried (roots and thick stems twisted off) (approx. 2 cups packed)
  • 1 Tablespoon fresh lime juice
  • 1 small clove garlic, pressed or minced
  • ½  teaspoon ground cumin
  • ¼  teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 cup reduced fat sour cream or plain Greek yogurt
  • 1 teaspoon olive oil
  • Few drops agave nectar or honey

Jalapeño Turkey Burgers

  • 1 lb ground turkey breast
  • ½ C finely chopped red onion
  • 1 Tbsp chopped pickled jalapeño (+/- to taste)
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • ½ C grated part-skim mozzarella cheese
  • ½ tsp kosher salt
  • 1Tbsp olive oil (for pan)
  • 6 ciabatta rolls, French rolls, or English muffins, sliced in half and lightly toasted
  • 1 ripe Haas avocado, peeled and sliced (optional)

1) Make Cilantro Lime Sauce:

Add all ingredients to food processor, or beaker if using stick (immersion) blender.

Pulse and puree until smooth. (Add a little more olive oil to aid processing, if necessary.) Adjust seasoning to taste (i.e., another pinch of salt or drop of agave/honey).

Refrigerate until ready to assemble burgers. (Note: This sauce is muy versatile; it can also be used as a dip for empanadas, as a unique taco salad dressing, as a cooling drizzle for chili, etc. It will keep for several days in the fridge.)

2) Make Turkey Burgers:

In a large bowl, combine all burger ingredients except olive oil and gently mix together using hands. (Another note: I make 2 burgers without jalapeños for the kids and then mix in the chiles for the remaining patties.)

Divide into 6 equal balls, then shape into patties.

Heat a large cast iron (or other heavy) pan over medium-high heat. Add olive oil until shimmering; then add patties and cook covered for 5 minutes. Flip patties and continue to cook (covered) until done. (approx. 4 minutes more)

 

Subee's turkey burgers

Perfectly caramelized turkey burgers; these smell amazing!

3) Assemble Burgers:

Lightly toast rolls (or muffins). Spread each side of roll with Cilantro Lime Sauce. Top roll with turkey burger and avocado slices (or other garnish of choice).

Baked Butternut Squash Rigatoni with Rosemary and Bacon

In a normal year, late November would be when I bring my big herb pots inside for the winter. But here in northern New Jersey it’s a balmy 65 degrees outside, so I think I’ll leave the pots of rosemary and bay laurel out on the patio for a little while longer. (Or at least until the weekend when I can put “Move heavy pots” on someone else’s To Do list.)

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Black Coffee Friday

Did anyone else out there start the day with a piece of pumpkin pie? I know I can’t be the only one. Pumpkin pie almost always tastes better the morning after Thanksgiving; I’m not sure if it’s because the cloves and cinnamon have had a chance to meld into the pumpkin custard, or because things just taste better when you’re not stuffed to the point of pain. Either way, I like it for breakfast with a blob of barely sweetened whipped cream and a giant cup of black coffee.

Since I’m a little cooked out today, instead of posting pumpkin pie recipes I thought I’d share my favorite way to make coffee. This is a great method if you like your coffee HOT, freshly brewed (vs scorched from a burner) and freshly roasted (vs pods) – like I do. (It should be noted that I have been called a “coffee snob” on more than one occasion, and I’m OK with that.) I started making my morning coffee this way when my old coffeemaker died, and even though I have a new machine now, I prefer this method when making coffee for one.

Here’s what you’ll need:

  • Freshly roasted coffee, ground for “paper cone” if you have a coffee place grind it for you. I like dark roasts like French Roast.
  • A big (12-oz.) mug or insulated coffee cup with lid
  • Paper cone filters (size #4)
  • A mug-top cone filter holder. (I had been using a smaller plastic one, but just found this nice ceramic one at Starbucks.)

In a kettle bring some water to a boil. Meanwhile, If you take milk, cream or sugar, add it to the bottom of the mug. Set the filter holder on top, and place a #4 paper filter in the holder. Add 1/4 cup ground coffee for a  12-oz mug. (If your mug is smaller or you like your coffee weaker, you might want to experiment with the proportions.)

When the water reaches boiling, pour it into filter holder with coffee grounds, filling to the top. (Note: I do this over a small tray since sometimes I overpour and end up with a coffee puddle.) When all water has drained through the filter, the coffee’s ready to drink. Legal disclaimer: Coffee will be very hot! Unless you have an asbestos mouth, have some pie while the coffee cools.

A Saucy Welcome

Welcome to my kitchen! By most accounts, I spend way too much time in here – experimenting with new recipes and planning the next meal or party when I should be exercising or starting those baby books. (The kids are now 9 and 7.)  But the heart wants what the heart wants, and in my case the stomach goes along for the ride. Pull up a barstool and join me!

With Thanksgiving only a few days away, you might be expecting some exotic new stuffing or cranberry chutney recipes here. Sorry to disappoint. For me, there are 364 days a year to experiment with new recipes, and then there’s Thanksgiving. I might get a little crazy and add cognac to the gravy one year, but that’s about the extent of it. I’m happy with the same roast turkey, same herb stuffing, same candied sweet potatoes, same mashed potatoes (no add-ins other than butter, milk & salt), same tart cranberry sauce*, same apple and pumpkin pies. Call me boring if you want, but I find ultimate comfort (and deliciousness!) in our family’s traditional meal; why mess with a good thing?

*In full disclosure, the tart cranberry sauce I make now was not what we had growing up. We had the jellied kind from the can, sliced into circles and fanned out in a cut glass dish. Tradition mandates that we serve it this Thursday as well. But in addition, we’ll have the Tart Cranberry Sauce I started making a few years ago – a super-simple recipe of fresh cranberries and a little sugar. Cutting back on the sugar allows the cranberries to shine, and I love how the tartness of the cranberries wakes up your taste buds and helps cuts through the richness of the rest of the meal. (Thus making it easier to go back for seconds.) This sauce could be made several days ahead, and brought to room temperature before serving. Happy Thanksgiving!

Tart Cranberry Sauce

  •  1 bag (12 oz.) fresh cranberries
  • ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 1 cup water

Add all ingredients to a saucepan.

Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally until berries start to pop (approx. 5 minutes). Continue to stir and mash berries against the sides of the pan until thickened.

Remove from heat; serve warm or at room temperature. Makes about 2 cups. (Because it’s tart, a little goes a long way.)