Monthly Archives: January 2012

La Vie Est Belle

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A few years ago, after losing two friends to cancer, I vowed I would never again bemoan a birthday. Growing older is a gift! Birthdays should be celebrated! (Piñatas and goodie bags optional.)

And so, in this spirit I am happy to announce that I celebrated this year’s milestone  (and new crop of gray hairs) in my favorite city and home away from home: Paris, France. A whirlwind trip of 72 hours, it was still enough time to visit good friends, hit the flea markets, eat a lot of unpasteurized cheese, and give thanks for turning one year older.

Here are some of the highlights from the trip, in case you have a birthday coming up as well.

My birthday éclair au chocolat from Stohrer, the oldest patisserie in Paris (est. 1730). Kate Moss once declared, “Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels.” She clearly never had a chocolate éclair from Stohrer. Inside this slender tube of pâte à choux was the most intensely chocolatey pastry cream I’ve ever tasted. (Confession: I also had a birthday pain au chocolat here, which was still warm and melty and worth every single calorie.)

Patisserie Stohrer

  • 51, rue Montorgueil, 75002 Paris
  • www.stohrer.fr
  • Open 7 days a week, from 7:30 a.m. – 8:30 p.m.

After walking past this fromagerie near the Marché aux Enfants Rouges (a covered open-air market), I couldn’t help but stop to pick up a few cheeses to sample. They even carried thinly sliced Poilâne aux noix (walnut bread). A boulangerie with fresh baguettes was just a few doors down.

Fromagerie Jouannault père & fille

  • 39 Rue de Bretagne, 75003 Paris
  • Open Tuesday – Saturday, 8:30 a.m. – 1 p.m., and then 3:30 – 7:45 p.m.; Sundays 8:30 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Little Breizh is a small, homey crêperie on the Left Bank. Despite being listed as one of the top Paris restaurants on TripAdvisor.com, there were still a couple of French people dining here. Crisp, lacey buckwheat crêpes with any fillings you like. Mine had bacon, raclette cheese, mushrooms and crème fraiche. So good my friend Kelly ordered it as her dessert crêpe! (Gena and I went more mainstream with chocolate and salted caramel sauces and vanilla ice cream.)

Little Breizh Crêperie

  • 11, rue Gregoire de Tours, 75006 Paris

Marché aux puces de St-Ouen (Clignancourt)

For me, no trip to Paris would be complete without an excursion to this massive flea market just north of the city. I’m determined to bring home France, one suitcase at a time. (Though this time I brought back some large abstract tableaux from the ‘70s, which had to be checked as oversized baggage.) Here are some shots from the puces, as well as some of the treasures I’ve found during past visits:

In the Marché Jules Vallès

One of a pair of red Sèvres vases

Old wine or cider bottles

Small signed oil on board

Terra cotta chèvre/cheese mould

Nested ironstone mixing bowls

Top Secret Flea Market Tips

There are web sites, books and even apps on the Paris flea markets, so I won’t rehash all the details here. I will, however, share some of my best-kept secrets for making a trip to the puces much more enjoyable:

  • Take the metro to Garibaldi (line 13), not Porte de Clignancourt (line 4). (Thanks to Kelly for this tip.) This will bypass all the unsavory and aggressive vendors lining the route from the Pte de Clignancourt exit to the heart of the antiques markets. After exiting the metro, take rue Kléber to rue Edgar Quinet to rue Rosiers. Take a right on rue Rosiers and keep walking until you see this Boulangerie/Patisserie:

  • Stop to get a snack. I recommend the croissant aux amandes (almond croissant) or anything that looks like it has pastry cream and chocolate chips. (This “Chinois” is one example.)

  • The best bathrooms can be found in the Marché Paul Bert. (This is the photogenic market most often seen in magazines.) There’s also a café and cash machine at the rue Paul Bert entrance of the market.

  • Take rue Paul Bert to rue Jules Vallès to find my favorite section of the flea market – the Marché Jules Vallès. Here’s where you’re more likely to find affordable, interesting bric-a-brac that can fit in your suitcase. Don’t be afraid to dig through boxes and strike up conversations with the vendors. (Unless they’re in the middle of lunch; best not to disturb the pot au feu.)

Wine Tasting at the Bon Marché

A lot of guide books list the Bon Marché (La Grande Epicerie de Paris) as a must-see for food lovers, but they neglect to mention the free wine tastings on weekend afternoons. This rosé champagne was one of the wines being sampled – lucky us!

Santé!

Sophie’s French Toast with Brown Sugar Walnut Sauce

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My younger daughter Sophie would be thrilled to have French toast for every meal, every day of the week. I even made it over a campfire last September, though without the signature Brown Sugar Walnut sauce it was less of a hit. (Suggesting perhaps that for her the French toast is merely a delivery vehicle for the butter/brown sugar sauce.) The sauce is a cinch to make in the microwave, but I didn’t have an extra pan to attempt it over the fire. Maybe next time. (Or – maybe next time I’ll have an important meeting or other serendipitous conflict with Camping Weekend and they’ll have to be content with Dad’s scrambled eggs . . .)

Serve with bacon, Canadian bacon or sausage to help balance the sweetness.

Sophie’s French Toast

Serves Sophie for the day, or 4 regular people  (Leftovers can be reheated in the microwave.)

  •  4 large eggs
  • 1 cup milk (skim, whole or half and half – whatever you like)
  • Pinch salt
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • 16-20 1-inch thick slices soft baguette or Italian/hoagie rolls (Here in NJ I like Calandra’s Italian rolls.)

Brown Sugar Walnut Sauce

  • ½ cup packed dark brown sugar (light is OK if that’s all you have)
  • 5 Tablespoons butter (if unsalted, add a good pinch of salt, too)
  • ¼ cup (heaping) chopped walnuts
  • 1 Tablespoon water

If desired, preheat oven to 350ºF and place a baking sheet inside. This helps keep the cooked French toast warm while you cook the remaining pieces. [Side note: Try cooking bacon in the oven. Less mess, with the added bonus that the oven will be warm and ready for the French toast. Arrange as much bacon as you can fit onto a parchment-lined baking sheet (the parchment aids in clean-up); cook at 400ºF until crisp.]

Make the Brown Sugar Walnut Sauce:

Combine all ingredients in a microwaveable bowl or measuring cup. Microwave 45 seconds; stir. Microwave another 30-45 seconds or until bubbling and sugar crystals have dissolved. (Check this by taking a little taste.) If too thick, add ½ tsp of water at a time to achieve consistency of thick maple syrup.

Make the French Toast:

In medium bowl, whisk together eggs, milk, salt and vanilla extract.

Heat a large nonstick pan over medium heat. Add bread slices to egg/milk mixture, turning to coat both sides and soak through to center of bread. (This may go quickly with soft, fresh bread or may take a little longer with drier, crusty bread; also note that the more saturated the bread is with egg/milk mixture, the longer it will take to cook.)  Add a little butter to pan if desired; with a good nonstick pan you won’t need to, but it’s extra insurance against sticking if you’re not sure. Arrange soaked bread slices in pan – as many as will fit without touching. Cook over medium heat 3-5 minutes, or until golden brown on one side. (The toasts will “release” from the pan and flip easily when they’re adequately cooked; flipping too soon may cause them to stick to the pan.) Flip and continue to cook on the other side until toasts feel springy to the touch (another 2-4 minutes more). Transfer to warm baking sheet and continue with remaining bread slices.

Microwave sauce to reheat just prior to serving. Arrange French toast slices onto plates and drizzle with sauce (or serve on the side).

Nacho’Mamma’s Rice Casserole

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My mamma never really made casseroles, but I’ve experienced enough bad ones in my life to understand why they are often maligned. (You probably have too.) Scratch all those bad memories: this meal-in-one is a fresh spin on the casseroles of old (no canned soup required); the end result is almost like a Mexican risotto (arrozotto?), which can be topped with fresh tomatoes or diced avocado or even a drizzle of my Cilantro Lime Sauce.  It’s a hearty yet elegant way to use up rotisserie chicken (or holiday turkey or almost any other leftover meat), and you can add whatever you like or happen to have on hand. The basics are rice, reduced fat sour cream, salsa verde, and frozen corn.  Any leftover rice will work, but this is a perfect way to be sneaky with brown rice (if you have brown rice objectors in your household). With all the other seasonings and textures in the dish, you’d have to be Tom Coliccio to catch it.  Lately I’ve been stocking up on Trader Joe’s pre-cooked vacuu-pouches, so I’ll always be ready for a casserole.

This recipe was inspired by Rick Bayless’s Arroz Gratinado, from his insightful book, Rick Bayless’s Mexican Kitchen.  Rick’s version calls for making your own roasted poblano rajas (sautéed roasted poblanos and onions), which I find too time-consuming for a mid-week meal. By using a good-quality jarred salsa verde, you can get almost as tasty results in a fraction of the time (and importantly: with only 2 dirtied dishes!).

Mexican Rice Casserole

Serves 4-6, though can be doubled for a crowd

  • 1 cup reduced fat sour cream
  • 1 cup salsa verde (I like Xochitl brand)
  • ½ tsp ground cumin
  • ½ tsp dried oregano
  • 1 ½ – 2 cups cooked rice
  • 1 ½ cups frozen corn
  • 1 – 2 cups shredded rotisserie chicken or other cooked meat
  • 1 cup grated cheddar or Mexican blend cheese

Optional fillers:

  • 1 can green chiles, chopped
  • 1 cup canned black beans
  • ¼ cup chopped cilantro

Optional toppers:

  • Anything you’d normally put on nachos: Diced fresh tomatoes, diced avocado, shredded lettuce, chopped cilantro, sliced olives
  • Crumbled tortilla chips
  • Cilantro lime sauce

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Mix sour cream, salsa verde, cumin and oregano in a measuring cup or small bowl.

In a small casserole or 8×8 baking dish, sprinkle ½ of the rice. Then sprinkle with ½ of the corn. Top with ½ of the sour cream/salsa mixture.  Then add ½ of the chicken, ½ of any optional fillers, and then ½ cup cheese. Repeat for a second layer, starting with the rice and ending with ½ cup cheese. (Don’t worry too much about the order of the layers; just try to have the sour cream/salsa mixture touching the meat layer.)

Bake for 30-40 minutes, until bubbling and browned on top. Serve hot. (Reheats well the next day, too, though it won’t be quite as creamy.)

Add desired toppings. I went with tomatoes, avocado, crumbled tortilla chips (always a favorite), and some leftover cilantro lime sauce.

¡ Buon provecho !

Corn & Leek Chowder with Cheesy Drop Biscuits

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Few things are better on a cold January day than hot soup and biscuits. Except maybe this soup and these biscuits.

I call it a chowder because of the bacon, potatoes and cream, but it’s really just fancied up chicken soup. (That tastes nothing like chicken soup.) Fresh rosemary is really key here; most of the other elements can be modified to suit your taste, cupboard ingredients or Points plan. (I.e., use an onion or shallots instead of the leeks, or make a flour/butter/milk roux instead of using the cream, or add more or less potatoes or corn, etc.) Serve with large napkins and anticipate slurping.

Corn & Leek Chowder with Fresh Rosemary

Serves 6-8

  • 2 large or 3 medium leeks, chopped (white and light green part only)
  • 6 slices of bacon, cut into ½” slices
  • 1 heaping Tbsp fresh rosemary, finely chopped
  • ½ cup dry white wine
  • 64 oz (2 boxes) chicken stock
  • 10-16 oz. frozen yellow corn, or a mixture of yellow and petite white
  • 1 chicken bouillon cube
  • 1 ½ cups diced russet or Yukon Gold potatoes, cut into ½” cubes
  • 1 Tbsp sugar
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • Kosher salt & freshly ground pepper

Cut dark green tops off of leeks and discard (or wash and save for making homemade stock, or add to the compost pile, or shred and dehydrate for homemade Easter grass). (That started out as a joke, but now it’s got me thinking. . . ) Cut leeks in half lengthwise, then cut into ½” slices crosswise.

Add sliced leeks to a bowl of cold water and swish around to rinse. (Sand and grit will fall to the bottom of the bowl.) Carefully remove rinsed leeks to a lettuce spinner basket or colander. Repeat if the leeks were especially sandy.

In large Dutch oven or stockpot over medium heat, cook bacon until crisp. Remove with a strainer or slotted spoon and drain on paper towels; set aside for garnish.

Add chopped leeks to bacon grease left in pan (There should be about 1 Tbsp, but if the bacon is extra lean you may need to add a little olive oil.)

Sauté leeks until softened and starting to caramelize, about 10 minutes. Add rosemary and sauté one minute more.

Add wine to pan and use a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits at the bottom of the pan. Add chicken stock, corn, bouillon cube, potatoes and sugar to pot. [Here I go with the bouillon cube again; bouillon cubes are just handy packets of salt with a little extra flavor boost; feel free to use 1 teaspoon of kosher salt or a spoonful of “Better Than Bouillon” instead.]

Reduce heat and let simmer uncovered until potatoes are tender. Stir in cream.  Add freshly ground black pepper and kosher salt to taste (a little pinch at a time, and keep tasting until it tastes good to you.) If you want a thicker soup, smash a few of the potato cubes against the side of the pot and stir to incorporate the potato starch. Garnish with reserved crumbled bacon.

Can be made several days ahead. In fact, tastes better if made several days ahead. If soup becomes too thick, thin with a little milk or chicken stock.

 

Easy Cheesy Drop Biscuits

Adapted from a 1999 Bon Appétit recipe for Cheddar and Stilton Drop Biscuits

  • 2 ½ cups unbleached all purpose flour
  • 2 Tbsp sugar
  • 1 Tbsp baking powder
  • ¾  tsp cream of tartar
  • ½  tsp table salt (not Kosher)
  • 7 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into ½ -inch pieces
  • 1 cup (packed) coarsely grated Gruyère or extra sharp cheddar cheese
  • Optional: ¼ cup crumbled gorgonzola or blue cheese
  • 1 ¼ cups buttermilk (or ¾ cup reduced fat sour cream and ½ cup skim milk)
  • 1 large egg

Preheat oven to 400°F. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper. Add first 6 ingredients to food processor and pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal.

Add cheese(s) and pulse again. Transfer mixture to large mixing bowl.

Blend buttermilk (or reduced fat sour cream and milk mixture) and egg in the liquid measuring cup. Add to flour mixture, stirring just until dough is moistened.

Using a small ice cream scooper or spoon, scoop approx. ¼ cup of dough for each biscuit and drop onto parchment lined sheets (2 apart). [Sorry – forgot to take a picture of this step, but it’s a lot like making cookies.] For best results, chill in refrigerator for an hour before baking, (Or chill overnight; you can load them all onto one baking sheet for chilling and then space out onto 2 sheets for baking.) Bake biscuits 20 minutes, rotating sheets halfway through baking.  (Worth doing even if you have a convection or true convection oven.)

Can be made several days ahead and warmed in a low oven.

Makes about 2 dozen mini biscuits.

 

 

More Broccoli, Please!

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OK – so I’ve stretched this a bit.  My kids don’t always say “please” at the dinner table (though we’re working on it).  They do, however, devour roasted broccoli like locusts coming off of a cleanse. When friends ask me for advice on how to get their kids/families to eat healthier, I suggest they get out a baking sheet and try roasting some vegetables.  Roasting at a high temperature caramelizes the natural sugars in vegetables, making them sweet, crunchy and irresistible.  True story: the first time I made roasted broccoli for a Walter family gathering, the eleven kids polished off 3 huge (HUGE) bunches of broccoli before the adults had a chance to go through the buffet line.  Another manners moment: Kids, please leave some broccoli for the rest of us!

Roasted Broccoli

  • 1 large head/bunch broccoli
  • Olive oil
  • Kosher salt

Heat oven to 450ºF.

Chop the florets off one bunch of broccoli; reserve the stalks for soup, or peel and slice into pieces to roast along with the florets. Chop large florets into smaller pieces, since this makes for quicker cooking time and crispier edges.

Dump florets onto an ungreased baking sheet. Drizzle lightly with olive oil. You want enough oil to coat the florets, but not so much that you turn your oven into a deep fryer. 1-2 Tablespoons should be plenty.

Using your hands, toss broccoli to coat, and spread out into one even layer. (If there’s not a little air space around each floret, use a second baking sheet to ensure crispy vs. steamed broccoli.) Sprinkle with a generous pinch (approx. ½ tsp) of kosher salt.

Roast in a 450ºF oven for about 15 minutes, or until the edges have turned crisp and brown. Serve immediately for maximum crunchiness.